Reef-friendly sunscreen is the best for the environment, Charge you camera batteries/phone as youll want to take a lot of pictures, Take enough cash to pay for everything you need in the mountains (and extra just in case), Download Maps.me to your phone so that you have offline maps. The great unknown of Albania lures people in and the friendliness and hospitality, paired with some of the most amazing landscape, do their part to make the visitor fall in love with the country. To learn more, I'd decided to hike a five-day, 59km section of the trail from the Albanian village of Valbona to the village of Theth. The range includes the mountain Zla Kolata, which, at 2,534m (8,314ft), is the tallest mountain in Montenegro. The Accursed Mountains have one endemic species of lizard, the Prokletije rock lizard or Dinarolacerta montenegrina, named after the range.[26]. Establishing the trail meant mapping routes known only to shepherds and encouraging farmers to open guesthouses. Responsible and sustainable tourism, for both the people and the environment, is a philosophy inherent to Albanian Trip. When asked which brother she preferred, the fairys answer was one for his bravery, the other for his good looks. Xplore Albania offers a great variety of tours; walking Albanias untamed paths in the Accursed Mountains or sailing the Ionian Sea, through the Albanian Riviera. The buses from Theth usually depart hourly (when full) from 7am-13:30pm. A plantain plant Plantaginaceae is found in the central Accursed Mountains as a variant of the alpine Wulfenie, but 700km away it does not grow. In the past, the only route for crossing the border between Montenegro and Kosovo was via Rugova Canyon, which was very dangerous and steep. Allow extra days if you are wanting to explore Theth or Valbon further, Depending on your exact start and end point, the hike is 12km, We would rate this hike as moderate. They are passionate, friendly, knowledgeable and with connections to almost every pocket of this diverse country. Walk any path out of the village and nature completely embraces you. It then leads to the source elevation of the Qafa e Predelecit after Vermosh, followed by another border crossing, ending at Gusinje. The hilltop fortress is 3.5km form the city. A shepherd doesn't just look after animals, but people too," he said. Boenzi Federico, Giovanni Palmentola: "Glacial Features and Snow-Line Trend During the Last Glacial Age in the Southern Apennines (Italy) and on Albanian and Greek Mountains", in: Cook, Steve and Marash Rakaj. For hikers and outdoor-lovers, the Accursed Mountains offer a wealth of stunning scenery. They scream and make gestures: Flat, flat, flat! After weve said goodbye I watch them walk down the slope with playful ease and climb the other side of the mountain to herd their sheep together. Depending on where you are, the range is called Prokletije, Alpet Shqiptare or Albanian Alps. In many villages there are small hydroelectric power plants that supply the village with electricity.[36]. The Accursed Mountains (Albanian: Bjeshkt e Nmuna; Serbo-Croatian: , Prokletije, pronounced[prkltij]; both translated as "Cursed Mountains"), also known as the Albanian Alps (Albanian: Alpet Shqiptare), are a mountain group in the western part of the Balkans. But the valley is threatened because the Albanians from Tirana have a completely different idea of the experience of nature. Names don't come much more evocative than the 'Accursed Mountains' (Bjeshkt e Namuna; also known as the Albanian Alps), but the dramatic peaks of northern Albania truly live up to the wonder in their name. He was later found dead, the hotel burned down. Even if its in the heart of winter and in the middle of snow-covered Accursed Mountains. A significant proportion of this accumulation is likely to be sourced from windblown snow and, in particular, avalanching snow. [12] In addition, there are about 20 small lakes of glacial origin as described above, including the Buni Jezerc group of lakes on the northern side of the Jezerca Peak, the Ridsko Lake, the Bukumirsko Lake and the Rikavako Lake. As was true with Albania as a whole, we would loved to have spent more time in Theth. Giving back and making the world better while enjoying enriching experiences. Illegal indeed, but with a bit of luck there wont be any border police and itll save me hours of detour.With my heart beating in my throat I drive into the valley. However, its more popular to start in Valbon, You will need: 1 day to get from Shkodr Valbon, 1 day to hike Valbon Theth and 1 day to get back to Shkodr. Long called "Europe's enigma" by book authors and travel guides, Albania is possibly the most misunderstood country in Europe. [citation needed] The Bjeshkt e Nemuna National Park on the Kosovar side was established in 2012 with an area of 50,000ha (190sqmi), covering the high alpine areas as well as the Rugova Canyon and important rivers. Various evergreen bushes are found in the deepest valleys of the canyons and sunny slopes,[17] and in the higher valleys deciduous Shibljak shrubs are common. Subscribe to Lonely Planet newsletters and promotions. The Accursed Mountains: Journeys in Albania - Goodreads There are three national parks in the Accursed Mountains one each in Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. It turned out that the man was a mountain guide and simply said: thats exactly what youre looking for.Arriving at my guesthouse, the hospitality was underscored by a table full of local delicacies: cheeses, dried meat, grilled vegetables, home-baked bread. Open the window. "We were frightened; no one was coming to help we had to defend ourselves." 7 Days Trekking in Accursed Mountains of Albania Distribution and diversity of Arctic-Alpine species in the Balkans. The Valbon to Theth hike is easily arranged from Shkodr, You can do the hike from both directions. Many lakes are in the Bogievica border area between Kosovo and Albania and the Buni i Jezerc trough near the Jezerca and Bojs peaks. A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. At the end of communism, however, several thousand people emigrated and depopulated the area. The largest canyon is Rugova Canyon. But, given our packed itinerary for our final week in Europe, coupled with the upcoming wet weather forecast, we and our two new friends elected to take a waiting furgon(shared minibus) back to Shkodr that afternoon. The path zigzags steeply up through a fairytale forest until it finally opens on a plateau. They have very steep limestone slopes with abundant karst features. The flora in the rocky areas of the Accursed Mountains are particularly noteworthy, because they are rare rich and endemic species, including the Tertiary relic Amphoricarpos neumayeri. A third legend claims Slavic soldiers gave the mountains their name as they struggled to march through them. French geologist Ami Bou described this part of the Accursed Mountains as "the most inexplicable, the most inaccessible and the wildest mountain range in the Balkans". We commenced hiking at 9am. Just a short distance to the border. As a visitor you are more than welcome. We had been given a receipt from our hostel/hotel stating where we were staying. The Accursed Mountains aka the Albanian Alps, are located in northern Albania, extending into neighbouring Montenegro and Kosovo. With a wide variety of natural features, including rock formations, waterfalls, and plenty of flora and fauna, the area is too good to skip. The kind of place where every sound echoes ominously, where you hear things that arent there and where you look over your shoulder at dusk even though you know that nobody is walking behind you.150 families used to live here, now theres little over 20. Cursed or not, these mountains looked truly spectacular and we made our way through Eastern Europe to Shkodr, the gateway city to undertake this much-anticipated hike. They arranged our 2d/1nt trip for us which included: They made everything so easy! These massifs include the Popluks group with a height of 2,694m (8,839ft), the Shkurt group at 2,554m (8,379ft), the Radohims group at 2,570m (8,430ft), the Zabors e Krasnis at 2,625m (8,612ft), the Bjelic group at 2,556m (8,386ft), the Karanfili-Brada group at 2,554m (8,379ft), the Rabs group at 2,232m (7,323ft), the Ershellit group at 2,066m (6,778ft), the Kakinjes group at 2,359m (7,740ft), the Shklzen group at 2,407m (7,897ft), the Bogievica group at 2,533m (8,310ft), the Horolac group at 2,199m (7,215ft), the Kershi Kocaj group at 2,399m (7,871ft), the Maja e Zez group at 2,400m (7,900ft), the Lumbardhit group at 2,522m (8,274ft), the Kopranik group at 2,460m (8,070ft), the Strellc group at 2,377m (7,799ft), the Gjeravica group at 2,656m (8,714ft), the Junik group at 2,296m (7,533ft), the Starac-Qokorr group 2,426m (7,959ft), the Hajla group at 2,403m (7,884ft), the Stedim-Ahmica group at 2,272m (7,454ft), the Zleb-Rusulija group at 2,382m (7,815ft), the Mokna group at 2,155m (7,070ft) and the Suva Planina group at 1,750m (5,740ft).[7]. [18] Out of 77 arcto-alpine species of former glacial flora on the Balkan Peninsula, a little over 50 species can be found in the Accursed Mountains. The Lim flows through the Plav lake. They only speak Albanian we are literally on the border of Albania and Montenegro and we communicate with hands and feet. And Outdoor Albania would gladly be your guide. We visited in the first week of October and there were only a few other tourists wanting to hike at that time. Prokletije - Travel guide at Wikivoyage The two most popular hikes are the trek from Theth to Valbona Peak and to the hike to the Blue Eye of Theth, a pristine swimming hole in the mountains. Obviously, the two most popular (ok, and only) activity in Theth is exploring the surrounding mountains and the hiking in Theth, Albania is second to none. There are spectacular mountain views here of the Karanfil mountains and at the top of the Peja Pass, there is the dramatic col with Maja e Jezerce and the Accursed Mountains to one side. So, Mustafa used his savings, built more huts and has since dedicated himself to caring for travellers full-time. [6] At higher elevations snow is found even in summer, except in very dry years.[12]. It means that the aim of the company is to create meaningful relationships between travelers and local communities while benefitting the people and places you visit. Buni Jezerce means "Valley of the Lakes" and it contains six small glacial lakes, the biggest being called the Big lake of Buni Jezerce. [5][6] The southern boundary of the Accursed Mountains is found at the river Drin and its tributary Valbona. An impenetrable wall of peaks and points. Zbulo isnt just a made-up word, it actually means discover or explore in Shqip (Albanian). Alternatively, just start your hike nice and early to be in Theth before 13:30pm. Instead, the sweeping setting evoked a startling sense of isolation, and I couldn't help but feel I'd entered a back-of-the-wardrobe secret land that had somehow evaded the attention of the outside world. Winter brings cold temperatures and snow and the hiking trails are usually closed between November May, Your email address will not be published. In 1998, when Agon was 13, his father had to protect his family from Yugoslav forces moving in from Serbia and Montenegro as tensions rose between ethnic Albanians, ethnic Serbs and the Yugoslav government. Overhanging walls and ridges forming pointed peaks are typical of the western and central Accursed Mountains. As a result, hundreds of thousands of Kosavans fled their state, with many crossing the Accursed Mountains into Albania. Blood feuds, loneliness, legendary hospitality, an illegal border crossing and one of the most spectacular rock formations in Europe. Indeed, this is where shepherds still take their flocks to high summer pastures and where blood feuds continue to hold sway, and it feels as if you're far, far away from 21st-century Europe. The Accursed Mountains Albania Names don't come much more evocative than the 'Accursed Mountains' (Bjeshkt e Namuna; also known as the Albanian Alps), but the dramatic peaks of northern Albania truly live up to the wonder in their name. The Peak of the Balkans Trail: Europe's last true wilderness Doing more of the surrounding hikes and visiting the Blue Eye certainly were appealing. Albania Hiking | Accursed Mountains Hiking | Wild Frontiers [15] As of 2013[update] 50 flora species are endemic, sub-endemic and endangered plant species. Oliver Smith travels to the remote borders of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo to set foot in a once-forbidden mountain wilderness where, today, walkers are, The borderlands where Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo meet are one of Europe's wildest corners, whose mountains once inspired fear and now draw hikers. Den Doolaard used Theths dramatic setting as the setting for his classic The Inn with the Horseshoe. Only at the very top of the 2,056 meter high Talijanca do I meet people. [29][30] Theth National Park was designated in 1966[31] and covered area of 2,630ha (10.2sqmi) along the Thethi River. Accursed Mountains | Zbulo! Discover Albania This winter's most exciting ski destination: Albania's Accursed Mountains Fri 18 May 2012 17.45 EDT L ike many minor roads in Albania, the route from the northern city of Shkodr to the nearby mountains is not tarmacked, and as our van bumps along, it contributes to. Only take a small bag with you as you will need to hike with it, Store your main bag in your hotel/hostel in Shkodr, Wear good sturdy shoes. We are aiming for Theth, a village where blood feud was an accepted custom until well into the twentieth century. In the philosophy of Sondor Travel, which we share, travel stretches your mind because of the myriad of new amazing landscapes you will see, and unknown smells and sounds you will experience, and above all because you will get to listen firsthand to stories told by people who live differently. Deep river canyons and flat valleys wind around the ridges of the mountains. Blood feuds in Albania's Accursed Mountains. As the afternoon sun dappled through the thistled canopy, we slowly picked our way downhill. Some authors, however, see the river Lim as the northern boundary of the Accursed Mountains in geological terms. Maja Jezerc, standing at 2,694 m , is the highest point of the Accursed Mountains and of all Dinaric Alps, and the . Valbon and Theth are very small villages, so options are limited. We were able to refill our bottle at our accommodation in Valbon, Definitely take sunscreen, cap and sunnies. Regions . "Our politicians wanted a conflict and made religion the problem," she said. Ardita and her sons are standing on top in the distance. [citation needed] Tamara is currently the only place in the central mountains with infrastructure such as a secondary school. Discover the best things to do in the Albanian Alps and more with this post. Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us onFacebook, or follow us onTwitterandInstagram. Accursed Mountains (Albanian Alps) is one of the top walks in Albania, and one of the world's best walk, treks, hikes and climbs. Petasites doerfleri is only found on the Jezerca peaks, and the Albanian lily Lilium albanicum and Viola ducagjinica are only found at the top of the Maja Radohims slope. Water levels fluctuate because the karst topography drains the water underground. The text had been updated. Large mammal species that have long been extinct in other regions are found here, such as the Eurasian brown bear, grey wolf, red fox, European wildcat, roe deer, fallow deer, red deer, wild boar and European otter. [24] So far 140 species of butterflies have been found, which makes the Accursed Mountains the richest area in Europe for butterflies. [31] The Valbona Valley National Park was designated in 1996 and covered 8,000ha (31sqmi), including the Valbona Valley and the Valbona River. But dont abuse their generosity, it could cost you dearly. Getting back to Shkodr was not arranged by the hostel. The story behind this evocative 'Accursed Mountains' name goes that two brothers were out hunting and came across a beautiful fairy. Accursed Mountains. That sometimes helps. It took about an hours drive to Valbon through more lovely scenery. Additionally, hiking trails have been marked and trails maps and travel guides published. This walking holiday to the wild north of Albania is probably one of the last great European adventures. Waterfalls are found in some parts of the range. Blood feuds, loneliness, legendary hospitality, an illegal border crossing and one of the most spectacular rock formations in Europe. I hold my breath as the 44 inches carefully along chasms and ravines. The neatly maintained paths, the duration marked route signs, the theme walks, panoramic terraces, mountain huts with e-bike charging points. Illegal indeed, but with a bit of luck there wont be any border police and itll save me hours of detour. The tranquil location was also a perfect place to chillout and read a book, or like Chris chase butterflies around. The valleys show characteristic effects of Pleistocene glaciation. Hrid Lake is a clear example of a well-preserved glacial relief. Even the somewhat more distant, larger cities of Shkodra, Podgorica, Gjakova and Peja create their sphere of influence and are frequently visited by inhabitants of the highlands for errands, administrative procedures and market sales. Outdoor Albanias specialties also include one-day and multi-day hiking tours and heritage tours. In 2009 the American Catherine Bohne went on holiday to Valbona for 11 days, met the Albanian Alfred on the ferry and never left. A fatal blunder. The Denelle trail is moderate to strenuous, dependent on your fitness level, with an elevation of nine hundred meters. After another fabulous fireside meal, we were in bed early for one of, if not the most cosy and peaceful nights of our 18 month travels. We found it significantly cheaper to book these tickets through Getbybus.com compared to buying them at the station in Dubrovnik. [1], The origin of the name "Accursed Mountains" is disputed. The Accursed Mountains, the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps, stretch more than 60 kilometres (40mi) from Lake Skadar along the MontenegrinAlbanian border in the southwest to Kosovo in the northeast. Alternatively, a taxi will cost around 2500 lek (20). It is also available on the Maps.me app. Run the Accursed Mountains | Trail Running Albania Holidays | Worldwide See them scramble down the steep rocks. A cushion-sedge and blue grass lawn of (Seslerion juncifoliae) grows in alpine areas and, on shallow limestone soils, Oxytropidion dinaricae, to which the alpine grass krumm grows as in the Alps. To some extent even the national parks are affected. Erosion during glaciation left many telltale features behind. Tomorrow on the other side of the range, in Montenegro, the sun will shine. Theth is one of the most isolated villages in a historically isolated nation (Credit: Peter Eastland/Alamy), We ended our hike in Theth, an Albanian village encircled by green pastures and imposing mountains whose cold mountain streams flowed under humpbacked Ottoman bridges. Aspens (Populus tremula) grow in damp sites alongside mountain maple (Acer pseudoplatanus) and Norway spruce (Picea abies). The furgon cost 10 (1200lek p/p) and left at about 15:30pm. There you have it, its your own fault if only I had just turned around. Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information. His wife served up a delicious lunch of soup and bread upon our arrival. Precipitation washed away smaller rocks, but larger ones remain on the southwestern and western lake shore. [9] It has very steep vertical mountain slopes on both sides. In the period from 2006 to 2009, the number of tourists rose from 300 to around 7,500 per year. [16] The southern edge of mountains have a sub-Mediterranean character. Our September/October European travels were carefully planned to avoid big summer crowds. These points are at 4245' and 4215' N in the Mediterranean zone of the western Balkan Peninsula. It started with an early morning furgon(shared minibus) ride at 6:30am for about 1.5-2 hours, taking us to Koman. All rights reserved. The wild face popularly gave it another name: the Accursed Mountains. OVERVIEW Albania is without question one of Europe's hidden wonders. The first portion of the hike was a 2.5km stretch along a dry stoney river bed before gradually ascending past small rural farms with their traditional stone-walled fields. [20][17][21] The highly endangered Balkan lynx, a subspecies of the Eurasian lynx, is mainly found in the Theth National Park where about roughly 2050 individuals still roam, though poaching is still a large threat. CORRECTION: A previous version of this story incorrectly stated that Albania was not a part of NATO or the Eastern Bloc anddidnt identify Bosnia as a predominantly Muslim nation. We stayed at Guesthouse Arben Selimaj, tucked away in a great spot in the Alps. Many Albanians and Kosovars refer to their close relationship as "one nation, two states", as highlighted in the popular Albanian slogan "jemi nje" (we are one). The dome-shaped Maja e Harapit to the other and the descent to the Shala river valley and Theth village straight ahead. From Albania I steer towards the city of Pej in Kosovo. [10] The largest lake is Lake Plav in Montenegro. And then in a dingy cafe in Kolain in Montenegro I heard the name: the Cursed Mountains. The Ali Pasha natural springs in Montenegro near Gusinje are the premium attraction for the town. The drought-resistant Mediterranean-sized black pine (Pinus nigra) is also common. Want to visit Theth National Park & The Accursed Mountains in Albania? In some areas, the Accursed Mountains run almost parallel with the ar Mountains in North Macedonia, Albania and Kosovo. Tour operators like Zbulo arrange all accommodation along the trail, and our guesthouse hosts in the hamlet of Babino Polje were Mihajlo and Jelena, a married couple. [17] Also noteworthy is the Viola vilaensis Hayek. By early summer 1929 all the summits were measured by Italian geodetes. The Accursed Mountains - WIDEOYSTER MAGAZINE It is one of the rare mountain ranges in Europe that has not been explored entirely. The Accursed Mountains are spectacular, unspoiled and virtually impenetrable, except . SH20 road crosses the Accursed Mountains in the Kelmend region of northwestern Albania, stretching from the eastern shore of Lake Scutari at the Han i Hotit border crossing with Montenegro, to the first pass into the valley of Cem. [19] These plants are atypical alpine plants specially adapted to the short growing season, UV radiation, cold and thin soils. No more time to quickly put ten euros in my passport. This incredible journey takes you through picturesque valleys and dramatic rocky gorges, past densely forested hills and secluded mountainside villages. We hiked along the crystalline Valbona River through an ancient beech forest filled with sweet, wild strawberries and blackberries that I stopped to taste. They leave travellers to arrange this themselves, as many people choose to stay on in Theth for a few days, or finish the hike after the last furgon departs. We started out under moody looking skies, before the sun slowly broke through. and it boasts a coastline of 476 km full of pristine beaches. Today, these signs are the only indication of the international borders, but it wasn't always this way. Albania: Run the Accursed Mountains - Go! Running Tours Hand over passport and drivers license. If there is enough of you wanting to go, you may be able to negotiate a ride. That sometimes helps. Their main focus is to provide travel services while always keeping in mind that Albania and the Balkans (just like the rest of the world) need to be preserved for future generations. There was a nice view point here overlooking the Theth National Park. 283: 219235. Or take the mountain hamlet of erem, where, without electricity, hot water or telephone reception, you automatically disconnect from everyday life These are the unique qualities of Valbona with which you can develop sustainable tourism, fitting for a National Park. The time of year should influence your hike start time. Their stable is situated amidst scenic hills, green valleys and surrounded by high mountains and rural life. We love pinning our journeys as we travel, Stock up on snacks and water (if necessary) at the SPAR or other supermarkets in Shkodr. Detailed geomorphological mapping was used to reconstruct the positions of former glaciers. It's immediately apparent from their size and impenetrability why the Albanian Alps are more commonly known to locals as Bjeshkt e Namuna, or 'the Accursed Mountains'. Just when it gets a bit uncomfortable, the chief of police appears. Thethi National Park, Thethi valley, set among the peaks of the Albanian Alps, part of the Accursed Mountains. THE PANORAMA ROUTE SOUTH AFRICA A COMPLETE GUIDE, BEST SUNRISE PHOTOGRAPHY SPOTS IN MELBOURNE, MELBOURNE BY NIGHT: THE BEST NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY SPOTS IN MELBOURNE AUSTRALIA, BEST VIEWPOINTS OF THE GRAMPIANS AUSTRALIA, Bus-Boat-Bus transport from Shkodr to Valbon 15 p/p, 1 night accommodation at a guesthouse in Valbon 20 p/p dorm or 25p/p private (paid directly to the guesthouse).